Walter Munk with a replica of an ancient "surfboard"
Isn't He Swell?
Legendary Scripps alumnus and professor emeritus of geophysics
Walter Munk was recently honored by the Groundswell Society, a
nonprofit organization dedicated to the global surf riding
community, for his research before and during World War II into the
power of storms and the origins of waves.
To recognize his contributions to the surf community, the society
presented Munk with a replica of a pre-Incan watercraft. Made in
Huanchaco, Peru, it is believed that the small, reed "surfboard" was
used for fishing and possibly riding waves.
"We wanted to give Dr. Munk a tangible symbol of maritime culture
from a time when man could only be curious about the power of the
waves," said society co-founder Glenn Hening. "Our curiosity knew no
bounds for generations, until one guy came along and tried to figure
it all out. That's why we thought, as surfers, to honor Dr. Munk."
"I have been fortunate in receiving the recognitions that are
traditional in a scientific career: the National Medal of Science,
election to the National Academy and the Royal Society, etc.," said
Munk. "But none gave me as much unexpected pleasure as this
recognition by the Groundswell Society. I was utterly delighted."
The honor took place at the 6th Annual Surfing Arts, Science, and
Issues Conference held at Scripps in February. The program included
a screening of "Waves Across the Pacific," the 1963 documentary film
that showcases Munk's research on Antarctic storms and "Southern
Hemi" groundswells.
The goal of The Groundswell Society is to establish a values-based
influence on modern surfing, supporting education, research, and
community involvement in the arts, sciences, and issues of the world
of riding waves. The society promotes critical thinking, dialogue,
and action amongst surfers wanting to leave a lasting positive
surfing legacy for generations to come.
Shannon Casey